How to Use Ceramic Deflocculant: Dosage & Best Practices

Getting the deflocculant dose right is the difference between a beautiful casting slip and a ruined batch. This guide walks through practical dosages, mixing steps and troubleshooting — written for plant technicians.

Starting Dosage Recommendations

Dosage is always expressed as a percentage of dry clay weight. A conservative starting point:

Mixing Procedure That Works

1. Weigh your water into the mixing vessel.
2. Add the deflocculant to the water first and stir until fully dissolved.
3. Add dry clay gradually while mixing — do not dump it all in.
4. Mix until the slip pours in a steady, even stream.
5. Strain through an 80-mesh sieve, ideally twice.
6. Rest the slip for at least 24 hours before casting.

Signs of Over-Deflocculation

Too much deflocculant produces a slip that is stringy, gelatinous or glossy on the surface. Adding more water will not fix it. Instead:

• Add a little more dry clay to rebalance, or
• Add a small amount of a flocculant such as vinegar (acetic acid) or calcium chloride.

Water Quality Matters

Hard water contains calcium and magnesium that consume deflocculant. If your source water changes, recalibrate the dose. Many plants test and adjust per batch until the system stabilizes.

Working Safety

Sodium silicate is alkaline. Wear safety goggles, nitrile gloves and protective clothing, and work in a ventilated area. Wash skin immediately after contact.

FAQ

Why is my slip thickening after resting?

A slight increase in viscosity (thixotropy) is normal. If it thickens too much, add deflocculant in tiny increments.

Can I reuse recycled body scrap?

Yes, but recycled material changes the required dose — retest when scrap ratio changes.